The Cheese Barge

Cheesy, Cheeky Dishes

Paddington Basin, Sheldon Square, W2 6DL

££

You may have heard of the Cheese Truck which I believe started in Camden’s Kerb Market some years ago and then went on to tour the UK festival circuit, before becoming available to book for private events and weddings. The Cheese Truck is an original ice cream truck and has greatly expanded from its humble beginnings, with two Cheese Bar permanent establishments in Covent Garden and Camden, and a further Cheese Barge located in Paddington Central.

Yes, you thought right: the Cheese Barge is a boat, parked in Paddington Central and serving up a maximum of 20 lucky diners at a time (depending on if the roof terrace is open too). The Cheese Barge was a belated birthday gift from Tom (yes, I got an early AND a belated, and yes, both were food based). I know a lot of people rave about cheese, so much so that it starts to get a little cringey sometimes… but I promise you I really, really love the stuff. Think straight gorgonzola out the pack with a teaspoon kind of love and you’re halfway there. So, one rainy Thursday evening we exited Paddington station, thinking that it was a pretty oddly remote place. It has a lifeless, barren feel to it when walking around – almost like it’s much further west than expected (sorry, west londoners…) However, once you get down to the canal, you are met with a cluster of cute, sophisticated restaurants. The Cheese Barge is no exception – for a barge it is incredibly spacious and comfortable. The large windows let in plenty of natural light and the bright, clean interiors help to keep things functionally stylish.

To the food: we ordered some Westcombe Fried Curried Cheese Curds (£5.5), White Lake Goats' Curd, Lamb Scrumpets £10 and Cropwell Bishop Stilton Stuffed Prunes (£6.5). Trying to steer away from our typical order of burrata and sourdough, we wanted to push the boat out and get something a little different. The curried cheese curds were a kick of flavour immediately – crispy outer skin covered in a perfectly sweet and spicy chilli jam, giving way to a delightfully chewy interior with a more subtle, milky flavour. Next to arrive were the lamb scrumpets – less impressive but tasty nonetheless, served with a creamy goats curd and pickled walnuts. Last to grace the starters were the stuffed prunes, which were an easy highlight. I don’t even think I like prunes that much, but these were stuffed with bitter, salty blue cheese and wrapped in a piece of crispy bacon. Think pig in a blanket but sweeter, creamier: more indulgent.

For main we for the Kirkham's Lancashire Aligot (£25). On keeping with things we hadn’t tried before, half cheese half mash potato seemed an inviting place to continue the journey. Served with Pork, Fennel & Red Wine Sausage, Braised Red Cabbage and Chicken Sauce – this is a like a warm British hug on a plate. The mash potato was stringy like mozzarella, the sausage thick, flavoursome and of a really good quality. Meanwhile, the red cabbage had a nice tang and the chicken sauce was rich but light enough to not be overpowering. It was comfort food at its finest, not usually what I would order at a restaurant, but there’s a first for everything.

The real standouts of the cheese barge were those two starters: unique, punchy, and decadent. If I was to come here again, I would stick to the smaller plates and order as many as deemed acceptable. After the amount of cheese and wine consumed, we were understandably too full to sample desert, but these also looked delightful. The whole meal, coupled with charming, and attentive service made this experience an extremely positive one. I would happily return to one of the Cheese Bar’s locations, and I’m seriously considering one of those famous toasties at the next festival…

OVERALL RATING: ****

https://www.thecheesebar.com/paddington/