O'Cantino De Portugal

Portuguese

137 Stockwell Rd, SW9 9TN

££

Tucked away on the unassuming Stockwell Road is a lovely, local feeling Portuguese restaurant. My Dad lives in the flats pretty much next door so has become their eccentric regular over the past couple of years, and I’ve happily joined him on more than a few occasions. O’Cantinho has been in the area for over 20 years, and you can tell by the waiting staff’s interactions, number of Portuguese people dining and large sized party tables that they are absolute tricks of the trade.

The main-road setting might at first seem a little dismal, but once you enter O’Cantinho’s four walls you’re greeted with white tablecloths, cute artwork and a cosy atmosphere that can transport you out of the no-mans-land between Brixton and Stockwell, and make you feel as though you’re in the motherland yourself. They have a decent wine list – with most between £20-£25 and the most expensive being a still pretty reasonable £40. This is a sign of the whole menu: it’s quality without pretention. The staff are the same – they ooze knowledge and confidence in the food on offer, are professional and serve quickly but leave time for banter and niceties too (my father’s a bit of a talker and they often humour him).

The first and potentially most important thing to know about O’Cantinho, is that the starters reign supreme. Time and time again, the fish dishes here are truly faultless. From gigantic fresh mussels, swimming in a delicious parsley and white wine sauce (£6) – to some shocking pink shrimp (£6), coated in a rich garlic butter – make sure you get some of their lovely homemade bread (£3.5) which is fluffy, light and perfect for soaking up the juices. The Octopus salad is also great – tender and perfectly cooked, but a little less punchy than the other two. I’ve tried the selection of salt cod fritters, veal croquettes, and patties with chilli mayo (£4) which are less impressive but still great value and good if you’re after something a little naughtier. The Grilled Portuguese Chorizo (£6) is a more meaty treat and is served dramatically with an open flame that you can watch burn down at the table – though be aware this isn’t as yummy as your traditional chorizo and is less tender, probably due to the way it’s cooked.

For mains, the Seafood Rice Casserole (£17) is by far the best thing I’ve tried – it is a mix of mussels, brown crab, shrimp and squid with a subtle tomato sauce. It’s a big portion so enough to share between two, but it is slightly lacking on the amount of fish you get in it so don’t be disappointed if you’re not much of a sharer. I’ve also tried the Grilled Sea Bass (£15) which was served with pepper, migas and seasonal veg. It was nice enough and a bargain for the colossal portion size, but a little on the oily side for me to enjoy fully – by the end of the plate it was hard to differentiate flavours and everything tasted the same. I’ve also tried the Saturday special which is a squid cooked in a creamy sauce with chips – though the sauce was actually quite nice and taster better than it looked (it was a light brown colour which made the squid look not very appetising), I prefer my seafood cooked lightly with fresher flavours.

I’ve never gone for any of the meat dishes on the main menu as they all sound a little too heavy for me, especially after I’ve indulged in all my favourite starters. The majority of it is steak or casserole, served with lots of fried potatoes. It even includes the infamous baked sandwich with thick white bread, steak, smoked sausage and ham – topped with cheese and swimming in a VERY rich sauce. I tried this once in Porto and although the hangover I was on may not have helped, it almost gave me a full-on panic attack. I’m sure that for some people this hits the spot just right (and I am partial to my heavy meats and cheese), but this seems to be where I draw the line on these matters. I have, however, had a Saturday meat special which was crispy roast pork – sounds bloody divine, but I have to say, this was really, really disappointing. The pork was dry and tasted reheated, and for £20 the majority of it was bone. It was served with crisps which I though not only odd, but a bad pairing for such a heavily fatty meal already. A couple next to us had the beef skewers which actually looked lovely, so my advice would be to stick to the fresher stuff if you insist on getting the meat options here.

Overall, O’Cantinho is remarkable for its charm, its unassuming nature, and its sublime seafood. You should seriously come here with a gang, order all of the starters and treat it as tapas – the quality in this area really shines, and it is much better value than other joints you’ll find in town. You feel relaxed, welcomed and looked after: a sign of true hospitality. Try that famous sandwich too, if you dare.

OVERALL RATING: ****

https://www.cantinhodp.com/