Barrafina

Coal Drops Yard

Stable St, London N1C 4AB

££

If you haven’t hard of London’s most iconic group of tapas restaurants, then you’ve probably been living under a rock. Tapas has always been one of those “good time” foods, but never something I would consider as my go-to. I love the concept of small sharing plates, ordering a tonne of things from the menu and having a taste of each – but I’ve always thought other cuisines do this better. That is, until I tried Boquiera back in 2018 – a deliciously decadent tapas restaurant on Acre Lane. I have since not found anywhere to rival it, but then I had never been to Barrafina.

I first heard musings of Barrafina in 2016, when at my first job my boss would often try and nab a table for a business lunch. I spent hours on the phone trying to book a table but was told time and time again that it was strictly walk in’s, a fact that explains the constant winding queues out the door and around the corner at all of their venues. There is something quite unnerving about having your meal whilst being gawked at by other hungry diners, and it does reinforce the typical London experience of feeling ‘lucky to be there’, even with the ludicrous bill your left with afterwards. However, despite the popularity, Barrafina is never a place where you feel rushed: the authentic casual surroundings are true of any traditional Spanish tapas bar, as is the relaxed atmosphere, informative and friendly staff and buzzy setting.

There are now three Barrafina locations, and each is probably as good as the other – although the Dean Street location is the only to hold a Michelin Star. I went to the Kings Cross location with an old colleague turned good friend and we managed to nab the final two seats in the house at around 7pm on a Thursday – prime time, so a lucky result. It is clear on arriving that Barrafina doesn’t really have much space for traditional dining: 90% of the seating in this establishment is around a central bar with stools – a warning for people with bad posture/back problems as your elongated feast may get a little uncomfortable after an hour or so. It’s also the kind of joint you go to with one friend, not 4 as side-by-side dining isn’t much fun for large groups.

What you quickly realise at Barrafina is that this is not your usual, cheap, snacking tapas joint. It means business – from the 100mph chefwork going on in the open kitchen, to the whizzy waiters, to the rather large price tag on some of the dishes. We tried a couple of wines, before opting for a bottle of the Cruceiro de Ferreiros 2019 Valle de Miño-Ourense (£37). For food we went for the Padron Peppers (£7.5), some Ham Croquetas (£7.5), the Arroz Negro (£20) and the Prawn and Piquillo Tortilla (£11). The Padron Peppers came in a generous portion and were charred and salted as necessary. The Ham Croquetas were a small portion of only two, which was sad given how incredibly perfect they were. Seriously, I have had a few croquetas in my time and they are often a stodgy, flavourless disappointment. These, on the other hand, were perfectly creamy, silky, cheesy, interiors with tangy cheese and salty ham – encased in a thinner than average breadcrumb batter which were so sharp and crispy that it was like having tiny diamonds encrusted around the edges - still bearing their glimmer from the sheen of cooking oil.

The tortilla was next to arrive – something I have always seen as a glorified, overhyped omelette and would personally never usually order at a Tapas restaurant. My friend Alex, a Barrafina veteran, insisted we order it - so I decided to give it a go and my God I’m glad I did. It was the best thing I have eaten all year, a truly unforgettable experience - all from a mere omelette. Seriously though, the rich yellow egg was perfectly formed; flecked with chive and marbled brown from frying. The waiter asked if we were ok with our egg runny – to which we happily obliged. Cutting through it was a whole experience; think a burrata in technicolour – it oozed with rich orange liquid which was flecked with perfectly pink prawns and sweet red pepper. The flavours were rich, saucy and sweet. It felt fresh and indulgent all at once, and I honestly have no idea how they make it so perfect time and time again.

Another star of the show was the Arroz Negro: a seafood rice dish dyed black from squid ink, and topped with fried squid, parsley and garlic aioli. Firstly, the depth of flavour in this dish is second to none: arroz negro always packs a punch, but this one was kept perfectly moist rather than the chewier, stodgy versions I’ve been used to. The squid was tender and still tasted of the sea: a subtlety that managed to cut through the strong garlic that pervade the rest of the dish. You wouldn’t want to eat this on a hot date, especially one where your co-diner is especially funny causing your mouth to open a little more than usual, as your teeth and lips are stained for the duration of eating and a little while after. But I promise you that there is nothing more worth it than an Arroz Negro, especially this one.

We finished the bonanza with a Creme Catalana (£7.5) – essentially a crème brulee, but again – 10 times better. Not only was the sugar layer on top so thin it barely existed, it gave way to a perfect, creamy, subtly cinnamonny cream. The whole dish had a citrus edge which complemented the richness perfectly and was a fantastic finish to the meal. Although we didn’t have loads, it was enough to remain comfortably full – I would have happily eaten anything on the menu, which makes this a very exciting place to keep returning to. Overall – Barrafina was worth the hype. Don’t be put off by the queue, be encouraged by it. These people know what they’re doing (both chef and diner alike). This is by far the best tapas I’ve ever eaten and I’m already planning who I’m going to take with me next so I can show off and pretend to be a Barrafina veteran like all the rest of them.

OVERALL RATING: *****

https://www.barrafina.co.uk/restaurants