Som Saa
Thai
43A Commercial St, Shoreditch, E1 6BD
£££
Som Saa has long been on my radar after a knowledgeable foodie ex-colleague raved about it, claiming it was one of the best Thai’s he’s ever had. So it went on the list, and has ashamedly remained there for far too long, mostly due to the location (Shoreditch), which I personally think is the most overrated area of London and don’t happen to frequent much at all. I was prodded to remember this old friend when it appeared alongside Kin Deum, Smoking Goat and Kiln in some of Time Out’s best loved Thai restaurants. My birthday was coming up, and after finding out that top South-African joint Kudu was closed on Monday’s, I was forced to reconsider my options. That was until my ‘ta-dah!’ moment of realisation: what better excuse to try to slightly pricey and moderately upmarket Som Saa, that I had been hearing about for so long?
I booked a table for 4 and we were seated in one of the wooden booths towards the front of the restaurant, with the most natural light. I would describe the surroundings as shabby chic: an old warehouse conversion with both character and loftiness. The staff were all really friendly and attentive, advising us on certain dishes and wine with a keen smile and some good chat. We opted for a couple of bottles of the Friulano Italian white wine for £25 a bottle. This was the cheapest on the menu, but don’t let that put you off as it was light, fragrant and a good compliment to the dishes to come. For food, we were advised to opt for the ‘Tem Toh’ menu: a sort of group tasting option, with special dishes that the chef’s had chosen themselves to give you the best in house for Som Saa in one sitting.
I was at once blown away but the absolute flavour sensation which came from the small appetiser. The pork and prawn dip was perfectly laced with undertones of kaffir lime leaves, chilli and lemongrass. The flavours were strong by no doubt, but didn’t overpower the flavour of the prawns or pork it was surrounding. My only criticism would be that it stated to be served with ‘vegetables’ and was instead served with a few lettuce leaves, which actually worked really well, but just weren’t quite what I expected.
At such a brilliant start, we were excited for what was to come, and after a slight lapse in momentum we were served some succulent chicken skewers and green mango salad - a favourite of mine when I was in Thailand, with small dried shrimps, sharp lime dressing and freshness. This one was better than any I’d had out there: both a shock and a brilliant achievement. The whole fried seabass and five spice pork were also a delight, the fish impressing on dramatic presentation, whilst the pork was the best piggy I think I’ve ever eaten: melt in your mouth and deep-seated smokiness kind of good.
Following this (yes, there was more), was the sea trout curry which had less intense flavours to allow the fishiness to come through. This was served with some of the stickiest rice ever out of a small bamboo case. To finish, we were served the ‘red fire’ stir fry of Ceylon spinach and heart of palm, which was in its turn delicious, if not served a little late in my opinion as it would have gone so brilliantly with the seabass earlier in line. To finish, we went for some puddings which included some tasty ice cream and small nut-like and crunchy Thai sweets. Not a patch on their competitors before, but a satisfying and palette cleansing way to end the evening.
£35 per person for the above menu may at first seem steep, but for the amount you get (all 4 of us were stuffed at the end), and the quality of both ingredients and cooking, it is truly a bargain. The casual yet trendy settings allow you to effortlessly enjoy your meal: knowing you’re somewhere special without the suits and stuffiness. The bill came to just over £200 in total, including wine, desserts and service. Expensive? Yes. Worth it? Absolutely.
If you truly enjoy the primal pleasure of good food and like an adventure within your own city then make Som Saa one of your must-visit destinations this year. Shoreditch may be overrated, but Som Saa most definitely is not: officially my new favourite London restaurant - if I could give it 6 stars I would.
OVERALL RATING: *****
https://www.somsaa.com/
