North: Fashioning Identity
Various Artists
Somerset House
8 NOVEMBER 17 - 4 FEBRUARY 18
£7.00
North: Fashioning Identity is an exhibition exploring representations of Northern England. From Blackpool to Manchester, Sheffield to Liverpool - the works cover a lot of ground and also a lot of subject matter with their depictions of northern life, incorporating the typical stereotypes as well as fresh new visions.
In the first room sits 'Spare Time' - a black and white 15 minute film by Humphrey Jennings exploring what the northern working man does between work and sleep. Filmed in Manchester and Sheffield in 1939, the activities include singing and ballroom dancing as well as more 'masculine' activities such as smoking cigars over a pint and playing pool. The video is a great work of photojournalism - documenting a unknown area of society from a previous historical period now forgotten. It may also resonate with the older generation, unearthing a sense of nostalgia which the south simply cannot.
The second room explores gender roles in Northern communities. The man, through hard physical labour and a dominating presence, is depicted as the height of supremacy and masculinity. The female is usually consigned to the domestic sphere of the household whilst the male rules that beyond the front door. Responsible for chores such as laundry and cooking, the historical northern woman is often coupled with images of those iconic washing lines, or with a scarf tied in her hair as to keep it out of the way whilst she cleans.
Also present amongst the Northern female is a strong concern around appearance and beauty. A stereotypical image of women walking the streets with rollers in their hair are still present today (see image below from 2012, and image above from 1965). Also present are images of female power - Liverpudlian model Abbey Clancy is photographed in a strong, domineering stance, independent of a male presence. Whilst heavily made up women look bored rigid, sitting in gentleman's clubs: they are not pandering to their male counterparts, in fact, they are seemingly unaware of them at all.
As well as photography, the show includes fashion garments, sculpture and film. The sculpture is heavily mechanical, echoing the north's powerful role in industry. The fashion pieces included here can be seen all over the world - further emphasising the fact that the north has a universal influence. However, the most notable work from the exhibition for me, was Alasdair McLellan's film Infinity. Set in his hometown of Doncaster, the film explores a warm and romanticised vision of this northern town. Youth are seen frolicking in the green space, whilst the industrial buildings and purpose-built homes seem friendly, warm, inviting even.
You may have heard it's reet grim up north, but this show seeks to turn that misconception on its head. The North of England has influenced fashion, design and art enormously, but is often forgotten: a mere shadow behind the vibrant metropolis of London. Here is a space where Artists explore Northern identity, and show it for the original, inspiring and captivating region.
OVERALL RATING: ****
https://www.somersethouse.org.uk/whats-on/north
